Queens - A Patchwork Of Cultures

Ethnic Eats

By Amy Rutkin and Azi Paybarah

Don’t forget to experience Queens’ diverse offerings for the palate, too. From Indian-style Chinese to high-temperature Malaysian, there are enough eateries here to sample world cuisine without ever leaving the borough. Here’s a quick list of some of our favorites.

Bohemian Hall
and Beer Garden
There’s nothing better on a balmy, New York City Friday evening in the summer than drinking pilsner and eating Czech sausages with potato pancakes outside this place. One of the last beer gardens in NYC, this spot is as famous for its atmosphere as its food and beer.

Located at: 29-19 24th Ave., 718-274-4925. Mon.-Fri. 5 pm-3 am, Sat and Sun noon-3 am.

Bombay Mahal
Another hotspot for connoisseurs of Indian-Chinese fusion, the mouth-sizzling chilies and freshly chopped cilantro at this Sunnyside palace are a rare taste of home for Indian immigrants and a rare treat for everyone else. Try the fish fingers, shrimp toast, or load up on the Hakka noodles, a less-sweet version of lo mien noodles, deep-fried. As dark as the Manchurian sauce, the fried rice won’t be unfamiliar to Chinese food aficionados; it’s served with a mixture of onions, vegetables, scallions and carrots.
Located at: 39-11 Queens Blvd., 718-482-8777. Mon.-Thu. 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri. 11:30 am-11:30 pm, Sat. 2 pm-11:30 pm, Sun. 2 p.m. to 10:30 pm.

El Pisco in Maspeth serves up delicious cuisine of South America.

Da Martino
Currently under development at this Flushing bistro is a family-style menu where one plate will serve two or more, just like the old days in Italy. For those with smaller appetites but a discerning taste, da Martino’s offers a lunch special from noon to 4 pm, and an early bird dinner special from 5 to 7.

Located at: 60-06 Main St., 718-353-0245 Tue.-Sun. 11:30 am-10 pm. Fri. open until 11 pm, Sat. open until midnight.

Jackson Diner
A tried and true, nearly flawless Indian restaurant, despite recent reports of a down-hill slide. They serve a fantastic lamb vindaloo, perfectly balanced chicken tikka masala, and super-fresh saag (spinach and cream) dishes. Also, scrumptious nans and parathas (breads).

Located at: 37-47 74th St., 718-672-1232. Open daily, lunch and dinner.

Pio Pio
Delicious ceviches, rotisserie chicken and traditional Peruvian shrimp soup, to which we like to add a generous helping of marisol chili in hopes of achieving the perfect spicy-to-creamy ratio. It must be all washed down with the Peruvian national drink, a Pisco sour.

Located at: 84-13 Northern Blvd., 718-426-1010.

Rose Restaurant
Good old fashion Irish dishes are available at Rose Restaurant. Heartier eaters can browse though the list of triple-decker club sandwiches: turkey, chicken, tuna salad or roast beef. But the kitchen hits its stride when dishing out house specials like the fish and chips and Shepard’s pie. Save room for banoffie pie; the dish is a caramel covered cube, with sliced banana on top of a cookie crust, slathered with generous helpings of whip cream.

Located at: 44-07 Queens Blvd., 718-784-0745. Open daily 7 am-10 pm.

S’agapo
One of the many wonderful Greek restaurants in Astoria, though this one does real magic with meze (appetizers) and dips. Try anything they do with lamb-it’s a thing of beauty.

Located at: 34-21 34th Avenue, 718-626-0303.

Salerno
Even the atmosphere tastes good in Salerno, Richmond Hill’s famed Italian restaurant. The giant fork and spoon hanging above the kitchen doors may seem appropriately sized after seeing the portions, especially on our favorite combination, Salerno’s dinner special. Guests feast on a seemingly endless parade of appetizers, pastas, entrees and desserts. For those with a taste for the exotic, try the insalta di pesce or the octopus salad. The pappaderlla prosciutto, served in a pink sauce with linguine-like pasta, easily fits the bill as an entrée and the next day’s lunch.
Located at: 117-11 Hillside Avenue, 718-846-9742. Daily 11 am to 11 pm, closed Mon.

Kebab House in Little Neck has some of the best Turkish food in Queens.

Spicy and Tasty
Hottest of the Chinese cuisines, the Sichuan (or Szechwan) at Spicy and Tasty will make you sweat-or blister, if you’re not careful. A little risk-taking will yield the best new taste sensations; if you can’t handle the heat, word is the tea-smoked duck is delicious.

Located at: 39-07 Prince St., 718-359-1601. Open daily, lunch and dinner.

Sripraphai
In terms of authenticity and reach into the various culinary regions of Thailand, this is simply some of the best Thai food in the entire city. Prepare your palate for flavorful curries and their delicious laab, or Thai salads. We particularly enjoy the amazing flash-fried seafood laab, filled with cashews, mint, lime and chili. Go for the gai gaprow, a ground chicken and basil dish-and the spicier the better.
Located at: 64-13 39th Ave., 718-899-9599. Thu.-Tue., lunch and dinner, closed Wed.

Tangra Masala
American restaurants have a version of Chinese food, and India has theirs-this is no-nonsense fusion. South Asians in Queens are thrilled as an increasing number of restaurants cater to their particular version. Dishes like lollipop and chili chicken are far and away stand-outs.

Located at: 87-09 Grand Ave., 718-803-2298.

Taste Good
Start with the Roti Canai, a small, flaky, round piece of bread and a bowl of curry chicken sauce at this high-quality Malaysian eatery. Then, meander through the noodle dishes. Wash it down with the Grass Jelly Ice, a midnight-black liquid and a healthy cluster of ice cubes. The drink has an almond taste, is served ice cold, and makes a proper capper to the piping-hot dishes.

Located at: 82-18 45th Ave., 718-899-8001. Daily 10:30 am to 10 pm. Closed Thu.

Tibetan Yak
Subtle but complex-and far-too-often underrated-cuisine from the roof of the world. Go for the beef with garlic and chili, then stuff your face with the momo (dumplings).
Located at: 72-20 Roosevelt Ave., 718-779-1119. Open daily, lunch and dinner.

Amy Rutkin is Chief of Staff to U.S. Rep. Jerrold Nadler (D-Manhattan), and a lover of Queens cuisine.

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