Yum Stammtisch
Zum Stammtisch: 69-46 Myrtle
Ave., Glendale, 386-3014
Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 12 to
10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 12 to
11 p.m.
Cuisine: German
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
Credit Cards: All major
An overlooked tradition, or "law,"
adhered to by many Zum Stammtisch customers is that no woman may refuse her man at least
one weekly venture to the Stammtisch. Well, after one sojourn to the Stammtisch, I told my
boyfriend that he’d be the one refusing me.
The Stammtisch is a long lived tradition in
Germany, almost approaching the status of an institution. The word “Stammtisch”
comes from “Tisch,” meaning table, and “Stamm,” meaning a tribe, race
or family. Combine the two and you get “regular” or “family” table.
This is exactly what we found when we entered
the Stammtisch – a cozy, cottage-like family restaurant with sloping, peaking
ceilings, authentic German artifacts, German-speaking staff and costumed waitresses.
We started with two beers from the
Stammtisch’s extensive draft and bottle menu. I ordered a Spaten Oktoberfest (the
most ethnic sounding beer on the list) while my guest, a light beer fan, went with a
Spaten light. Both were served in foot-long glasses that really gave two for one.
After a nice loaf of piping hot German rye, we
moved on to the appetizers. I sampled the “house specialty” – a cup of hot
goulash soup ($2.75.) Spicy, hot and laden with meat, it was certainly the heartiest soup
I’ve ever tasted. My guest favored her cup of split pea with ham ($2.50.)
Then came the entrees. The Stammtisch staff
convinced me to try their “most popular item” – a lightly breaded veal
cutlet known as Jagerschitzel ($15.95). It was delicious. The thick, well-seasoned hunter
sauce had a rich flavor, and no bite was without a mushroom.
My guest tried the broiled salmon steak, cut
to order and served with home fries ($15.95). She was in heaven. The fish was fresh and of
generous portion, and the accompanying home fries were refreshingly light and fluffy. We
also enjoyed two side platters of creamed spinach.
After all that hot food, we needed to cool
off. I ordered the Eis Bear – vanilla ice cream topped with Barenjager liquor and a
slice of orange ($6.50), while my guest tried the chocolate with Eier liquor ($6.50).
Simultaneously sweet and exotic, dessert was Zum Stammtisch in a bowl.
- Jennifer D’Angelo |
