Durow’s of Glendale: 81-01 Myrtle Avenue, Glendale; 628-1490

Cuisine: Continental

Hours: 12 p.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, 12 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Handicapped Accessible

Credit Cards: All major

While the late 1930s may not have been the most opportune moment to open a German restaurant, the culinary tradition that began on Myrtle Avenue is still going strong today. But even though the ambiance has remained much the same over the years, the accent of the restaurateurs has shifted from the Rhineland to the Emerald Isle in a metamorphosis that is uniquely Queens.

But unlike the English language, Durow’s has remained true to its Germanic roots. Currently owned by the Keane family, which is perhaps more famous for Bridie’s on Woodhaven Boulevard, many of the staples of the original menu have been preserved. The German flavor is still very much apparent in dishes like Sauerbraten ($12.95), which is served with fresh braised red cabbage and homemade potato dumplings.

At the same time, the menu was dramatically expanded to include pasta, steak, chicken, and seafood dishes. The Seafood Pasta ($12.95), which includes shrimp, scallops, and crabmeat in a creamy tomato sauce, is considered one of the popular favorites on the menu.

There are also terrific lunch and dinner specials every day, like the Filet Mignon ($16.95) marinated in a delicious sauce with onions.

Each entree can be ordered a la carte or for $3 more as a complete dinner, which includes soup or salad, coffee and dessert. Even better is the lunch menu, which promises quick, terrific food and all for under $10. Try Durow’s Chefs Salad ($7.95), served with strips of turkey and ham and assorted cheeses, eggs, tomatoes, and garlic toast.

Durow’s also offers a great selection of rich desserts, including their famous puffed pastry, and an excellent cheesecake.

But their true specialty is their catering. With a space that can accommodate up to 350 people, once the dining room is co-opted, Durow’s caters weddings, anniversary and birthday parties. The prices are extremely reasonable considering not only the food quality, but the service as well. Whether you want a buffet or a sit-down dinner, the staff of Durow’s makes a point of providing the kind of intimacy that has become more and more uncommon.