BELMONT STEAKS:
79-11 Myrtle Ave., Glendale, 418-4355

HOURS: Monday to Thursday, 12 to
10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 12 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Sunday, 12 to 9 p.m.

CUISINE: Continental

HANDICAPPED ACCESSIBLE: Yes

CREDIT CARDS: All major

While the ‘Belmont’ part of Belmont Steaks is all about horses, the ‘Steaks’ part is all about great food.

The restaurant is a shrine to horse racing. Photographs of famous jockeys and trainers smile down at racing connoisseurs. Original riding crops, trophies, stirrups and racing colors deck the display cases. And paintings of real horses line the walls.

My guest and I dined in "Woody’s Corner," a virtual paddock segregated by a "stall door" on one side and a barnyard fence on another. Meant only for two and dedicated to renowned horse trainer Woody Stephens, the corner is made special by huge leather lounge chairs that work wonders on your back.

The lounge chairs are part of another motif: the American steakhouse.

Patrons can begin their meal with an aperitif at a full bar dimly lit by art nouveau lamps, and end it with a digestif at the cigar bar on the other side.

And in between…you can eat! "At the Starting Gate," my guest and I ordered mozzarella sticks ($4.95) and shrimp cocktail ($6.95). "Post Position," we ordered pasta primavera ($10.50) and grilled chicken. And for a "Fantastic Finish," we shared a slice of chocolate cream pie ($3.50).

I’d say the entrees came in first, with the grilled chicken sliced into thin, tender pieces instead of a fatty slab. And how can you beat shoestring fries? My guest loved her pasta primavera, which was elegantly presented (one veggie was shaved into a rose shape) and perfectly sautéed in garlic and oil.

The appetizers and dessert tied for second, with the mozzarella sticks melt-in-your mouth fresh, and the jumbo shrimp juicy and flavorful. We also enjoyed the chocolate cream pie, served in a graham crust with extra whipped cream.

Our waiter, Mike, remarked that the night before our visit, Belmont had been the set of an independent film – their second in a period of years. I’m sure it won’t be long before Coppola discovers the place. As far as good food and good-time atmosphere go, Belmont Steaks takes its place in the Winner’s Circle.